Iceland is a special place. Why? Because it is distinctive, because it comprises an old community that has been tainted with the landscape, it is a geologists fantasy island and if you get it right, it can be a photographer's fantasy island also. I have lived in Iceland for 3 years and in that time I have seen some incredible moments in terms of scenery.
Iceland is a mixture of old and new. Down the center of the country from the north east to the south west is the newest land. This follows the Eurasian and North American plate boundaries. This is most evident in the Reykjannes peninsular and at �ingvellir where the Almennagj� gives you a direct glance of what continental drift is. Along this line is where you will find some of the strangest geographical wonders. Within a 50 mile radius of �ingvellir (known as the 'golden Circle'), you will find Gullfoss (the largest waterfall in Europe), Geysir (the largest geysur in Europe) and Hekla (the most active volcano in Iceland). The are photo opportunities around every corner. The road that takes you to Gullfoss continues up into the north of Iceland through the desolate interiour. The route is only open in the second half of the summer. The central parts of Iceland are difficult to get to without a jeep, although I have managed most of the central routes in my little Ford Ka!
The fjorded areas in the east and west are the older parts of the country with evidence of glacial and interglacial periods in the form of flattened mountains and 3000 year old craters. The main ring road will take you around most of these fjords with the exception of the west fjords and Vopnafjordur in the north east. This doesn't mean that these areas are safer because fatal avalanches are frequent in the winter seasons.
Iceland has several glaciers. Vatnj�kull is the largest glacier in Europe. The tallest mountain is Hvannadalshn�kur (2119m) which sits on the southern most edge of the Vatnj�kull Glacier. Around this area are a few camp sites, a few road side cafes and farms offering services. Be sure to have plenty of supplies and don't venture into the unknown without at least a half tank of feul. There can be a two hour drive between towns in these areas. Spots to look out for are Skaftafell National park and J�kulsarlon. The Skaftafell National Park is one of four National Parks in Iceland. The area is huge but the center of it is a campsite with visitor shop and guided tours on the glacier. It is about a half hour walk to the foot of one of the glacial fingers from this visitors spot. Alternatively, you can take one of many hiking routes up the Skaftafell (Hill about 600m) past many beautiful waterfalls and eventually to a stunning panoramic view over the glacier and out across the glacial rivers to the coast. J�kuls�rl�n is a wonder of nature. The name means 'Glacial Lagoon'. Here huge chunks of ice fall from the glacier and have formed a large lagoon before they make their final voyage out to the sea. Because of the huge chunks of ice on this water block both wind and other disturbances, it is very easy to find the lagoon with perfect reflections. I have thought that it is impossible to get a bad photograph here. There is a large white suspension bridge (larger than most Icelandic bridges) that allows the road to cross the lagoon. There is a visitor center offering boat trips out into the lagoon. I would recommend venturing down to the sea where you will find strange iceforms on the black sand.
The east coast is dotted with a few communities and selection of beautiful mountains and a road which is 50/50 tarmac and dirt. Many of the small towns are fishing based and house a community of fishermen and their families. They often offer a free campsite because they are keen for you to stay and shop at the local amenities. This part of Iceland is perfect for a quiet retreat. The road follows the coastlines around the fjords which can be a little tiresome, but you are never far from getting that perfect sunset/sunrise position. A few new tunnels break up the monotony a little. These coastlines offer spectacular coastal landscapes and if you are adventurous, you can venture inland a little to some of the mountain passes. The people are friendly and welcoming and I never had a problem with setting up my laptop in a cafe to download my photographs. Some people will stop and stare as you set up your camera and tripod though.
The north is considered the highlands of Iceland and indeed it is packed with mountains. Two waterfalls stand out here: Dettifoss and Godafoss. Dettifoss the falling falls (rough translation) is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. There is no messing about with this one, it is straight down and it leaves your mouth wide open and your legs trembling. There is 24km of rough road from the main ring route to get to Dettifoss, but don't miss it out. If you are travelling from the east, it is just a half a hour before M�vatn. Myvatn used to be the largest lake in Iceland until a local volcanic eruption a few hundred years ago displaced much of it. M�vatn means 'Midge Lake' and indeed there are plenty of the harmless,little flies to accompany you for a least the next day of your journey. The lake is dotted with strange volcanic rock formations. On a good day you are guaranteed some prize pictures. If you continue on the main ring road, you will soon come across Godafoss (God falls). In my opinion, Godafoss is the second most beautiful waterfall in Iceland. A horseshoe complex of falls resembling a small Niagra falls will keep you worrying about your memory card or film supply. I jokingly told a German tourist that I was only here to wash my tripod.
The west fjords is known as Iceland's best kept secret, so I will maintain that secret. Suffice it to say that the most beautiful waterfall 'Dynjandi' is there, it would be impossible to count the number of waterfalls and the west fjords really is a trip on its own (unless you are in Iceland for over a month).
The Sn�fellsness peninsular is a magical place to conclude your trip before heading back to Reyjkavik. The mountains are not huge, but they make up for it in beauty. There are many picturesque places on the northern coast, look out for Grundafjordur with it's magical waterfalls and Kirkjufell (Church Mountain). At the head of the peninsular is the mighty Sn�fellsj�kull Glacier. It is possible to drive quite close to the top, although I tried this in the middle of summer and was stopped by a huge icesheet which blocked the road at the top. There are fantastic views over the whole of the Sn�fells area if you can be bothered to climb to the top.
If you like walking, I would recommend the four day hike from Landmannalauga to �orsmork. The mountain views are some of the best in the country. It is renouned for its hardness as you have to cross ice cold rivers and the ground is very unforgiving. Most people wouldn't attempt this unless they have trained a little or are mad.
Other places I would recommend are the Borgannes to Baula area. Most people drive through here in a hurry to get to Reykjavik, but I have seen some stunning landscape photography from here. If you take an interest in the history of the Icelandic people and their sagas, it can make some of the areas come to life. Most of the penguin range of saga translations have map references. Most of the saga sites are in the west of Iceland. In Reykjavik and other large towns it is possible to go on a whale watching tour. Although it is not guaranteed, there are usually good chances of see at least one whale. It also gives you a chance to mingle with other photographers.
There are northern lights in the winter half of the year and these can be frequent and strong if the skies are clear. I have seen cloudless skies with no aurora at all, but not many. Travelling is much harder in the winter and camping is out of the question unless you are experienced or mad. However you can get better deals at hostels and guest houses because they don't get much business. During midwinter, the sun will rise just four hours before it sets, which can give you sunrise and sunset opportunities in one outing. In the summer there is the benefit of 24hr light. On the very northern parts you might see a bit of the midnight sun during midsummer, but generally the sun sets and then rises a few hours later with 1 a.m. being the darkest. On a good night I have seen pink clouds for a full four hours ( a bit of an extension on the golden hour). Camping in the summer is very possible but I woud say that camping in May or August is like camping in your fridge. June and july is pretty much like England. Before May and after August gets closer to being like in your freezer.
The main ring road is fairly good. There are spots in the east where the tarmac stops and it is best to slow right down for these changes. You may notice that you hae an incredible landscape and there is nowhere to stop. Usually it OK to stop in the road if you are careful that approaching cars can see you and pass you safely. In remote areas you will find single lane bridges where you have to sometimes give way to the first car on the bridge, but in my travels I only had to slow down once. It is possible to drive 500km and see less than 5 cars. I would recommend hiring a jeep if you can afford it as it gives you access to a little more Iceland. Be careful not to drive off road as it is illegal unless the ground is frozen.
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